【火爆全城】VICE——新晋热门地标，背后大咖云集

by Morgan Short 摩根·肖特

[Chic & Savory] 【别致与美味】

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Copy Editor’s Note: Some places don’t just open… they explode onto Shanghai’s scene. That’s the whole idea behind On Fire, which is different from New Eats (whatever’s fresh and interesting) and Shanghai Secrets (the hard-to-find stuff). On Fire is the column for when a place demands to be prioritized. Book ahead or cry about it later.校对编辑注：有些地方不只是开业……而是在上海迅速走红。这正是《爆火》栏目的初衷，它不同于《新食记》（主打新鲜有趣的美食）和《上海秘境》（主打小众难找的好去处）。《爆火》是专门介绍那些值得立刻打卡的好去处的栏目。要么提前预订，要么事后追悔莫及。

There’s a new, new, new, hot, hot, hot restaurant-plus-lounge out there on the scene, ideal for people looking for fresh, wondrous, and creative things on their dinner plates and in their cocktail glasses. Read on if this applies!最近又冒出一家超火的餐酒复合式休闲餐厅，特别适合那些想在晚餐菜品和鸡尾酒里尝鲜、寻惊喜、觅新意的人。如果这说的就是你，那就接着往下看！

VICE – the submission to and celebration thereof – is a bistro and lounge coming to us from Chef Carlos Sotomayer (El Efante, Hai Yaki the Sea), doing the food and Bar Manager Nick (J. Borowski) doing the fancy drinks. Raffe Ibrahamian, who we all know from Cantina Agave, founded the concept and is an expansion of his empire. It’s in a spruced-up two-storey storefront on Yongjia Road. Coming in off the street, the first-floor dining area is simple and clean, with marbles and woods, muted colours and small accents, offering seating for about a snug 20 with a semi-open kitchen on one side. It’s modest. It’s approachable. It’s neighborly.VICE——即对其的呈现与推崇——是由卡洛斯·索托迈尔主厨（El Efante、海亚基海餐厅）带来的小酒馆与酒廊，主厨负责餐食，酒吧经理尼克（J.博罗夫斯基）调制精致饮品。拉菲·易卜拉欣米安，我们都从龙舌兰小馆认识的他，创立了这一品牌，也是其商业版图的拓展之作。餐厅坐落于永嘉路一处翻新后的两层临街店面。从街边步入店内，一楼的用餐区简约干净，以大理石与木质元素为主，色调柔和，点缀精巧，可容纳约20人就座，一侧设有半开放式厨房。这里低调亲切，平易近人，邻里般的氛围十足。

Credit: Brandon McGhee图片来源：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Downstairs dining space. 说明：楼下用餐区。

Upstairs the space opens up into a gorgeous chalet-style lounge and bar, replete with an arched roof, seating to sink into, and lovely swaths of crisp marble keeping everything a little bit dressy. A neat little patio on the second floor ties the venue in, although slightly above, its surroundings; your neighborhood restaurant from around the way – although one nice enough to come from other neighbourhoods to try out.楼上的空间豁然开朗，是一间华丽的木屋风格休息室兼酒吧，配有拱形屋顶、舒适的可躺座椅，还有几大块光洁的大理石点缀，让整体氛围多了几分精致感。二楼有一个小巧的露台，将整个场地串联起来，不过位置略高于周边环境。这是一家来自附近街区的社区餐厅——但环境好到足以让其他街区的人专程前来体验。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Upstairs lounge说明：楼上休息室

The genre is “elevated,” sharing plates of “global, borderless cuisine,” with a menu split up into hot and cold small bites, more substantial “plates,” bar snacks, and sweet things for dessert. The method, therefore, depending on party size, is scattershot, ordering four or five different small guys to go around and maybe one or two bigger guys from the “dishes” section and some desserts to share. Cocktails and wine to lubricate the process.这家餐厅主打“精致格调”，供应“全球化、无国界美食”，菜单分为冷热小食、分量更足的“主菜”、酒吧小食以及甜品。因此，点餐方式需根据用餐人数灵活调整：点四五道不同的小食供大家分享，再从“主菜”区点一两道分量更大的菜品，搭配一些甜品一同享用。再点些鸡尾酒和葡萄酒，为用餐增添氛围。

Or just get the chef to order whatever for you because that will always turn out the best. AKA it’s “a Carlos restaurant.”或者直接让厨师为你点单，因为这样做出来的永远是最好吃的。说白了，这就是“一家卡洛斯餐厅”。

Here are some sexy glamor shots of food:这里有几张诱人的美食精美特写：

Mosaic 马赛克

Credit: Brandon McGhee图片来源：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Mosaic (marinated salmon, Tiger’s milk, horseradish), 75 yuan菜品名：马赛克（腌三文鱼、虎奶汁、辣根），75元

The first dish on the menu is emblematic of the style of cuisine in the selections that follow, indicative of where Chef Carlos is in his creative culinary journey, and maybe serves as a bit of an ethos to proper living.菜单上的第一道菜是后续菜品风格的代表，既体现了卡洛斯主厨在其创意烹饪之路上的造诣，也或许暗含了一种健康生活的理念。

As opposed to “fusion” cuisine, which endeavours to merge different elements together into a new combination – a “melting pot” – a mosaic positions origin, al far-flung flavours together in the end product, existing alongside one another undiluted. The pieces of a Peruvian and Japanese journey here are uncompromised.与致力于将不同元素融合成全新整体的“融合菜”（即“大熔炉”模式）不同，马赛克料理则是将各地风味在最终菜品中并置呈现，每种风味都原汁原味地共存其中。秘鲁风味与日式风味在这道菜品里各自完整保留，互不交融。

The theme is a thread throughout the menu: simple plates with three or four, or five elements, pointing to their disparate and interesting origins and contexts, unearthed and introduced to each other by a global chef.这一主题贯穿整个菜单：由三四种或五种食材组成的简约菜品，彰显着它们截然不同又趣味盎然的起源与背景，这些食材由一位全球名厨发掘并相互搭配在一起。

Anyways, here’s more food pictures and less philosophy.好了，不说大道理了，多放些美食图片。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Daikon Fondant (maitake, mornay), 58 yuan菜品名：软心萝卜糕（舞茸、莫内酱），58元

Rich and creamy, the daikon evaporates on the tongue. Lusciousness.口感浓郁绵密，萝卜在舌尖消融，满口清甜。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: S&P Squid (smoky ranch), 65 yuan说明：标普鱿鱼（烟熏牧场风味），65元

Squidy! The ‘P’ is pigeon. The verdict from our table: “Oh yeah, that’s quite nice.”鱿鱼！这里的P指的是鸽子。我们这桌的评价是：“哇哦，确实挺好吃的。”

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Tuna, 98 yuan说明：金枪鱼，98元

The requisite tuna. Presented without ingredients, it’s a delicious international tuna of mystery.这道必不可少的金枪鱼。没有任何配料搭配，这是一份美味又充满神秘感的国际化金枪鱼。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Duck Confit Cigars (Comte, fig jam), 65 yuan菜品说明：油封鸭雪茄（孔泰奶酪、无花果酱），65元

You’ve got to have cigars in a cocktail lounge. And these are way, way better than real cigars. “Fig jam” is an ingredient I’m always delighted to see, but one that’s worrisome because it’s gotta be one of the guillotine-worthy things you can order. Keep one eye over your shoulder to watch for the righteous wrath of the proletariat breaking down the doors.鸡尾酒酒廊里总得有雪茄。而且这些（无酒精替代品）比真雪茄好太多了。“无花果酱”是我一直很乐意看到的配料，但也让人有些担心，因为它可能是你点单时最容易踩雷的东西之一。得时刻提防着无产阶级义愤填膺、破门而入的怒火。

These two are from the “dishes” section – bigger ones, but go ahead and share them:这两道菜来自“主菜”区——分量更大，尽管放心分享：

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Tilefish (sour seafood broth), 138 yuan说明：方头鱼（酸海鲜汤），138元

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Chicken and Abalone Claypot (morels, Jinhua ham, glutenous rice cake), 258 yuan菜品名称：鲍鱼鸡砂锅（含羊肚菌、金华火腿、年糕），258元

A great combination of flavor and sensations. A warm, bright, and creamy tilefish with a more hearty, bistro-style chicken and rice cake.风味与口感的绝佳融合。鲜嫩浓郁的方头鱼搭配风味醇厚的小餐馆风格鸡肉米糕，口感温暖明亮，绵密顺滑。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Master mind Carlos Sotomayor has been in Shanghai since the mid 2010s. He’s truly in his element at VICE, and getting more handsome with each day that passes!说明：策划大师卡洛斯·索托马约尔自2010年代中期以来一直在上海。他在VICE如鱼得水，而且一天比一天更帅气！

“My road is made open for me; it was for this that I was born.” That’s Joan of Arc behind the one and only Chef Carlos Sotomayer.“我的道路为我敞开；我生来就是为了这个。” 这是唯一的卡洛斯·索托迈尔大厨心中的圣女贞德。

Up to the lounge for drinks, take note of the gigantic and monolithic portrait of Joan of Arc, an iconic symbol of fanatical virtue.前往休息室享用饮品时，请注意那幅描绘圣女贞德的巨型独幅肖像，她是狂热美德的标志性象征。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: The upstairs lounge. Snag the low chairs if you can.说明：楼上休息区。尽量抢到矮椅。

Vice is a bistro and lounge, which means dinner stumbling bleary-eyed into drinks upstairs and then maybe even a repeat order from the kitchen, where they have a few particular items on the bar menu, which we’ll get to in a moment.Vice 是一家小酒馆兼酒廊，这意味着你可以在晚餐时醉眼惺忪地上楼喝一杯，之后甚至可能再去厨房点单。吧台菜单上有几道特色菜品，我们稍后会详细介绍。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

In the bar upstairs, the drinks are from Nick, formerly of J. Borowski, and firmly contemporary. They’re roundly served in that light and thin glassware, appearing simple, ephemeral, and uncluttered, and often featuring particular Chinese regional ingredients, along with the requisite arcana and obscura necessary to make proper fancy drinks in our modern times.楼上的酒吧里，饮品均出自尼克之手——他曾效力于J·博罗夫斯基公司，如今的酒款紧跟当下潮流。这些饮品盛放在轻薄透亮的玻璃器皿中，口感圆润，外观简约又不失灵动，毫无繁杂之感。其中不少还融入了特定的中国地方食材，同时搭配了现代调制精致鸡尾酒所需的各类特色辅料与小众原料。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

• Mosaic Coconut Punch (Calvados, sour plum, fresh lime, fresh apple, coconut milk, elderflower), 98 yuan马赛克椰子潘趣酒（卡尔瓦多斯酒、酸梅、新鲜青柠、新鲜苹果、椰奶、接骨木花），98元
• Black Earth & Agave (Tequila, ice cream, melon, fresh lime, rice milk, pimento), 98 yuan黑土地与龙舌兰（龙舌兰、冰淇淋、甜瓜、新鲜青柠、米奶、多香果），98元
• Bakery Old-Fashioned (Bourbon whiskey, tonka bean, barley tea, maple syrup, aromatic bitters), 98 yuan老式烘焙风味（波本威士忌、零陵香豆、大麦茶、枫糖浆、芳香苦精），98元

Our favorite is that Coconut Punch – recommend you chug two of them; that’s the sweet spot – a great match for this chocolate cake.我们最爱的是椰子潘趣酒——建议你一口气喝两杯，这是最佳量——和这款巧克力蛋糕绝配。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

And these super-secret off-menu items. Hot dog and noodles. Available on request. Good drinking food. And by god, they’re elevated.还有这些超隐秘的菜单外单品。热狗配面条。可按需点单。绝佳的下酒小吃。而且说真的，它们的品质超赞。

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: FM’s “secret” dog (kimchi mayo, pickled kyuri), 78 yuan说明：FM的“秘密”热狗（泡菜蛋黄酱、腌黄瓜），78元

Credit: Brandon McGhee摄影：布兰登·麦吉

Caption: Beef noodles (Saltado, egg pasta, and a bunch of herbs), 88 yuan说明：牛肉面（萨尔塔多面、鸡蛋意面及多种香草），88元

We’ve been following Carlos around Shanghai since the El Efante days in 2014, and it feels like this is his most personal project, and he’s really got his passion, shine, and creativity on here. He offers one of the best chef-driven dinner experiences in the city, and it’s a real pleasure to get led through a meal with him, pulling down pyrotechnics from his native South America into Japanese and Asian cuisine as he does.从2014年El Efante餐厅开业那会儿起，我们就一直跟拍卡洛斯在上海的足迹。感觉这是他最具个人色彩的作品，他将自己的热情、光彩与创意都融入其中。他打造的主厨主导式晚餐体验是上海最棒的之一，能跟着他完成一场美食之旅实在是难得的享受——他将源自南美本土的烟火技艺巧妙融入日式与亚洲菜系，手法堪称一绝。

They’re open for reservations and walk-ins; give in to your Vice and enjoy it frequently. Judging by the early crowds, this is going to be yet another Shanghai hit like Rambu.这里接受预订和直接上门用餐；顺从你的欲望，多来光顾。从早早到来的客流来看，这又将成为像兰布餐厅一样在上海爆红的店。

If you go 前往用餐

Opening hours: 5:30-10pm (dinner), with lunch service coming in a few weeks.营业时间：17:30-22:00（晚餐），几周后将推出午餐服务。

Address: 128 Yongjia Rd (Their hours are Bar snacks available until midnight, with the bar closing at 1am)地址：永嘉路128号（供应酒吧小吃至午夜，酒吧凌晨1点打烊）

Editor: Fu Rong 编辑：傅蓉