【火爆全城】VICE——新晉熱門地標，背後大咖雲集

by Morgan Short 摩根·肖特

[Chic & Savory] 【別緻與美味】

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Copy Editor’s Note: Some places don’t just open… they explode onto Shanghai’s scene. That’s the whole idea behind On Fire, which is different from New Eats (whatever’s fresh and interesting) and Shanghai Secrets (the hard-to-find stuff). On Fire is the column for when a place demands to be prioritized. Book ahead or cry about it later.校對編輯注：有些地方不只是開業……而是在上海迅速走紅。這正是《爆火》欄目的初衷，它不同於《新食記》（主打新鮮有趣的美食）和《上海祕境》（主打小衆難找的好去處）。《爆火》是專門介紹那些值得立刻打卡的好去處的欄目。要麼提前預訂，要麼事後追悔莫及。

There’s a new, new, new, hot, hot, hot restaurant-plus-lounge out there on the scene, ideal for people looking for fresh, wondrous, and creative things on their dinner plates and in their cocktail glasses. Read on if this applies!最近又冒出一家超火的餐酒複合式休閒餐廳，特別適合那些想在晚餐菜品和雞尾酒裏嚐鮮、尋驚喜、覓新意的人。如果這說的就是你，那就接着往下看！

VICE – the submission to and celebration thereof – is a bistro and lounge coming to us from Chef Carlos Sotomayer (El Efante, Hai Yaki the Sea), doing the food and Bar Manager Nick (J. Borowski) doing the fancy drinks. Raffe Ibrahamian, who we all know from Cantina Agave, founded the concept and is an expansion of his empire. It’s in a spruced-up two-storey storefront on Yongjia Road. Coming in off the street, the first-floor dining area is simple and clean, with marbles and woods, muted colours and small accents, offering seating for about a snug 20 with a semi-open kitchen on one side. It’s modest. It’s approachable. It’s neighborly.VICE——即對其的呈現與推崇——是由卡洛斯·索托邁爾主廚（El Efante、海亞基海餐廳）帶來的小酒館與酒廊，主廚負責餐食，酒吧經理尼克（J.博羅夫斯基）調製精緻飲品。拉菲·易卜拉欣米安，我們都從龍舌蘭小館認識的他，創立了這一品牌，也是其商業版圖的拓展之作。餐廳坐落於永嘉路一處翻新後的兩層臨街店面。從街邊步入店內，一樓的用餐區簡約乾淨，以大理石與木質元素爲主，色調柔和，點綴精巧，可容納約20人就座，一側設有半開放式廚房。這裏低調親切，平易近人，鄰里般的氛圍十足。

Credit: Brandon McGhee圖片來源：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Downstairs dining space. 說明：樓下用餐區。

Upstairs the space opens up into a gorgeous chalet-style lounge and bar, replete with an arched roof, seating to sink into, and lovely swaths of crisp marble keeping everything a little bit dressy. A neat little patio on the second floor ties the venue in, although slightly above, its surroundings; your neighborhood restaurant from around the way – although one nice enough to come from other neighbourhoods to try out.樓上的空間豁然開朗，是一間華麗的木屋風格休息室兼酒吧，配有拱形屋頂、舒適的可躺座椅，還有幾大塊光潔的大理石點綴，讓整體氛圍多了幾分精緻感。二樓有一個小巧的露臺，將整個場地串聯起來，不過位置略高於周邊環境。這是一家來自附近街區的社區餐廳——但環境好到足以讓其他街區的人專程前來體驗。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Upstairs lounge說明：樓上休息室

The genre is “elevated,” sharing plates of “global, borderless cuisine,” with a menu split up into hot and cold small bites, more substantial “plates,” bar snacks, and sweet things for dessert. The method, therefore, depending on party size, is scattershot, ordering four or five different small guys to go around and maybe one or two bigger guys from the “dishes” section and some desserts to share. Cocktails and wine to lubricate the process.這家餐廳主打“精緻格調”，供應“全球化、無國界美食”，菜單分爲冷熱小食、分量更足的“主菜”、酒吧小食以及甜品。因此，點餐方式需根據用餐人數靈活調整：點四五道不同的小食供大家分享，再從“主菜”區點一兩道分量更大的菜品，搭配一些甜品一同享用。再點些雞尾酒和葡萄酒，爲用餐增添氛圍。

Or just get the chef to order whatever for you because that will always turn out the best. AKA it’s “a Carlos restaurant.”或者直接讓廚師爲你點單，因爲這樣做出來的永遠是最好喫的。說白了，這就是“一家卡洛斯餐廳”。

Here are some sexy glamor shots of food:這裏有幾張誘人的美食精美特寫：

Mosaic 馬賽克

Credit: Brandon McGhee圖片來源：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Mosaic (marinated salmon, Tiger’s milk, horseradish), 75 yuan菜品名：馬賽克（醃三文魚、虎奶汁、辣根），75元

The first dish on the menu is emblematic of the style of cuisine in the selections that follow, indicative of where Chef Carlos is in his creative culinary journey, and maybe serves as a bit of an ethos to proper living.菜單上的第一道菜是後續菜品風格的代表，既體現了卡洛斯主廚在其創意烹飪之路上的造詣，也或許暗含了一種健康生活的理念。

As opposed to “fusion” cuisine, which endeavours to merge different elements together into a new combination – a “melting pot” – a mosaic positions origin, al far-flung flavours together in the end product, existing alongside one another undiluted. The pieces of a Peruvian and Japanese journey here are uncompromised.與致力於將不同元素融合成全新整體的“融合菜”（即“大熔爐”模式）不同，馬賽克料理則是將各地風味在最終菜品中並置呈現，每種風味都原汁原味地共存其中。祕魯風味與日式風味在這道菜品裏各自完整保留，互不交融。

The theme is a thread throughout the menu: simple plates with three or four, or five elements, pointing to their disparate and interesting origins and contexts, unearthed and introduced to each other by a global chef.這一主題貫穿整個菜單：由三四種或五種食材組成的簡約菜品，彰顯着它們截然不同又趣味盎然的起源與背景，這些食材由一位全球名廚發掘並相互搭配在一起。

Anyways, here’s more food pictures and less philosophy.好了，不說大道理了，多放些美食圖片。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Daikon Fondant (maitake, mornay), 58 yuan菜品名：軟心蘿蔔糕（舞茸、莫內醬），58元

Rich and creamy, the daikon evaporates on the tongue. Lusciousness.口感濃郁綿密，蘿蔔在舌尖消融，滿口清甜。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: S&P Squid (smoky ranch), 65 yuan說明：標普魷魚（煙燻牧場風味），65元

Squidy! The ‘P’ is pigeon. The verdict from our table: “Oh yeah, that’s quite nice.”魷魚！這裏的P指的是鴿子。我們這桌的評價是：“哇哦，確實挺好喫的。”

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Tuna, 98 yuan說明：金槍魚，98元

The requisite tuna. Presented without ingredients, it’s a delicious international tuna of mystery.這道必不可少的金槍魚。沒有任何配料搭配，這是一份美味又充滿神祕感的國際化金槍魚。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Duck Confit Cigars (Comte, fig jam), 65 yuan菜品說明：油封鴨雪茄（孔泰奶酪、無花果醬），65元

You’ve got to have cigars in a cocktail lounge. And these are way, way better than real cigars. “Fig jam” is an ingredient I’m always delighted to see, but one that’s worrisome because it’s gotta be one of the guillotine-worthy things you can order. Keep one eye over your shoulder to watch for the righteous wrath of the proletariat breaking down the doors.雞尾酒酒廊裏總得有雪茄。而且這些（無酒精替代品）比真雪茄好太多了。“無花果醬”是我一直很樂意看到的配料，但也讓人有些擔心，因爲它可能是你點單時最容易踩雷的東西之一。得時刻提防着無產階級義憤填膺、破門而入的怒火。

These two are from the “dishes” section – bigger ones, but go ahead and share them:這兩道菜來自“主菜”區——分量更大，儘管放心分享：

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Tilefish (sour seafood broth), 138 yuan說明：方頭魚（酸海鮮湯），138元

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Chicken and Abalone Claypot (morels, Jinhua ham, glutenous rice cake), 258 yuan菜品名稱：鮑魚雞砂鍋（含羊肚菌、金華火腿、年糕），258元

A great combination of flavor and sensations. A warm, bright, and creamy tilefish with a more hearty, bistro-style chicken and rice cake.風味與口感的絕佳融合。鮮嫩濃郁的方頭魚搭配風味醇厚的小餐館風格雞肉米糕，口感溫暖明亮，綿密順滑。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Master mind Carlos Sotomayor has been in Shanghai since the mid 2010s. He’s truly in his element at VICE, and getting more handsome with each day that passes!說明：策劃大師卡洛斯·索托馬約爾自2010年代中期以來一直在上海。他在VICE如魚得水，而且一天比一天更帥氣！

“My road is made open for me; it was for this that I was born.” That’s Joan of Arc behind the one and only Chef Carlos Sotomayer.“我的道路爲我敞開；我生來就是爲了這個。” 這是唯一的卡洛斯·索托邁爾大廚心中的聖女貞德。

Up to the lounge for drinks, take note of the gigantic and monolithic portrait of Joan of Arc, an iconic symbol of fanatical virtue.前往休息室享用飲品時，請注意那幅描繪聖女貞德的巨型獨幅肖像，她是狂熱美德的標誌性象徵。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: The upstairs lounge. Snag the low chairs if you can.說明：樓上休息區。儘量搶到矮椅。

Vice is a bistro and lounge, which means dinner stumbling bleary-eyed into drinks upstairs and then maybe even a repeat order from the kitchen, where they have a few particular items on the bar menu, which we’ll get to in a moment.Vice 是一家小酒館兼酒廊，這意味着你可以在晚餐時醉眼惺忪地上樓喝一杯，之後甚至可能再去廚房點單。吧檯菜單上有幾道特色菜品，我們稍後會詳細介紹。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

In the bar upstairs, the drinks are from Nick, formerly of J. Borowski, and firmly contemporary. They’re roundly served in that light and thin glassware, appearing simple, ephemeral, and uncluttered, and often featuring particular Chinese regional ingredients, along with the requisite arcana and obscura necessary to make proper fancy drinks in our modern times.樓上的酒吧裏，飲品均出自尼克之手——他曾效力於J·博羅夫斯基公司，如今的酒款緊跟當下潮流。這些飲品盛放在輕薄透亮的玻璃器皿中，口感圓潤，外觀簡約又不失靈動，毫無繁雜之感。其中不少還融入了特定的中國地方食材，同時搭配了現代調製精緻雞尾酒所需的各類特色輔料與小衆原料。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

• Mosaic Coconut Punch (Calvados, sour plum, fresh lime, fresh apple, coconut milk, elderflower), 98 yuan馬賽克椰子潘趣酒（卡爾瓦多斯酒、酸梅、新鮮青檸、新鮮蘋果、椰奶、接骨木花），98元
• Black Earth & Agave (Tequila, ice cream, melon, fresh lime, rice milk, pimento), 98 yuan黑土地與龍舌蘭（龍舌蘭、冰淇淋、甜瓜、新鮮青檸、米奶、多香果），98元
• Bakery Old-Fashioned (Bourbon whiskey, tonka bean, barley tea, maple syrup, aromatic bitters), 98 yuan老式烘焙風味（波本威士忌、零陵香豆、大麥茶、楓糖漿、芳香苦精），98元

Our favorite is that Coconut Punch – recommend you chug two of them; that’s the sweet spot – a great match for this chocolate cake.我們最愛的是椰子潘趣酒——建議你一口氣喝兩杯，這是最佳量——和這款巧克力蛋糕絕配。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

And these super-secret off-menu items. Hot dog and noodles. Available on request. Good drinking food. And by god, they’re elevated.還有這些超隱祕的菜單外單品。熱狗配麪條。可按需點單。絕佳的下酒小喫。而且說真的，它們的品質超讚。

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: FM’s “secret” dog (kimchi mayo, pickled kyuri), 78 yuan說明：FM的“祕密”熱狗（泡菜蛋黃醬、醃黃瓜），78元

Credit: Brandon McGhee攝影：布蘭登·麥吉

Caption: Beef noodles (Saltado, egg pasta, and a bunch of herbs), 88 yuan說明：牛肉麪（薩爾塔多面、雞蛋意麪及多種香草），88元

We’ve been following Carlos around Shanghai since the El Efante days in 2014, and it feels like this is his most personal project, and he’s really got his passion, shine, and creativity on here. He offers one of the best chef-driven dinner experiences in the city, and it’s a real pleasure to get led through a meal with him, pulling down pyrotechnics from his native South America into Japanese and Asian cuisine as he does.從2014年El Efante餐廳開業那會兒起，我們就一直跟拍卡洛斯在上海的足跡。感覺這是他最具個人色彩的作品，他將自己的熱情、光彩與創意都融入其中。他打造的主廚主導式晚餐體驗是上海最棒的之一，能跟着他完成一場美食之旅實在是難得的享受——他將源自南美本土的煙火技藝巧妙融入日式與亞洲菜系，手法堪稱一絕。

They’re open for reservations and walk-ins; give in to your Vice and enjoy it frequently. Judging by the early crowds, this is going to be yet another Shanghai hit like Rambu.這裏接受預訂和直接上門用餐；順從你的慾望，多來光顧。從早早到來的客流來看，這又將成爲像蘭布餐廳一樣在上海爆紅的店。

If you go 前往用餐

Opening hours: 5:30-10pm (dinner), with lunch service coming in a few weeks.營業時間：17:30-22:00（晚餐），幾週後將推出午餐服務。

Address: 128 Yongjia Rd (Their hours are Bar snacks available until midnight, with the bar closing at 1am)地址：永嘉路128號（供應酒吧小喫至午夜，酒吧凌晨1點打烊）

Editor: Fu Rong 編輯：傅蓉